Getting to the 7th Continent!

We decided to take a big adventure and head to Antarctica. We got a great deal on a relatively new cruise line called Atlas. This all-inclusive cruise included a charter flight from Orlando to Ushuaia, Argentina by National Airlines.  The arrangements seemed straight forward but soon became more and more complicated. A PCR test 72 hours prior to landing in Argentina (11-hour flight time), proof with your name on the document that you had coverage for Covid-19 with your insurance, proof of full vaccination, complete an Argentina declaration with uploading of documents 48 hours prior to arrival in Argentina. All of our documents needed to be in printed form as well as an electronic backup. We left home at 10:30am and at 9:00pm and after another Covid-19 antigen test...we boarded the plane. The good news is that it was an A330 and with only about 100 passengers...I was able to sleep laying down in a row of 4 seats. We landed in Ushuaia and through passport/immigration without any drama. 

December 10, 2021

The day was supposed to be a 1-hour bus tour around the city then lunch then board the ship. Unfortunately...that did not happen. We spent the day driving around Ushuaia, lunch at a ski resort, then bussed to a catamaran for a crowded 8-hour trip. The things that we learned about Ushuaia were interesting. In the wintertime, they have about 6 hours of sunlight, they are the southernmost city of Argentina and was founded in 1884. They have a population of ~70,000. This is an increase as 30 years ago the population was 2-3,000 and the government entices people to move to the city with tax breaks for corporations and manufacturing. The city is located about 3000km from Buenos Aires. At about midnight...we were taken to the Wyndham Gardens hotel at 2am we entered our hotel room. 

December 11, 2021

We spent the entire day sequestered in the hotel without communication from the cruise line. It turned out, 2 crew members were Covid positive, and the ship had to be deep cleaned, removal of crew members and close contacts, then authorization from the Argentinian government and Sanitation Minister. After dinner, we were informed (8pm) that we would board the ship at 9pm. We finally arrived on ship and cast off at 10:30pm. We finally arrived in our stateroom shortly after that. 

December 12, 2021

Today was a full day of sailing. The Drake Passage has been quite rough. Jim and I both felt a bit seasick and required a dose of Dramamine. We did enjoy a lovely langostine for dinner last night. Sunrise today was at 3:17 and sunset at 8:58pm. 

December 13, 2021

Today we are still feeling a bit rough but luckily, we have King George Island that we can see off our balcony. That means the water has become slightly calmer. We are scheduled to go off the ship at 3:45pm on the Zodiac to the South Shetland Islands today. Due to weather conditions, the Captain opted to visit Half Moon Bay/Island rather than their original plan for Whalers Bay/Deception Island. The 2–3-minute Zodiac ride from ship to shore was wet! The winds were whipping at 30-35 knots, and it was about 0 degrees Celsius. We saw lots of chin strap penguins and a bird of prey trying to steal their eggs with the Penguins fighting back. The island was both volcanic and balsalt.

December 14, 2021

We arrived in Paradise Bay early this morning. The waters were much calmer here. We went ashore and can now claim to have set foot on the Antarctica continent mainland. The bay was named by whalers before 1920 because it was a good shelter from storms. The base camp was named after Admiral Wm. Brown of Argentina but originally from UK. The camp was originally occupied year-round and was set on fire in the 80's by the camp Doctor who was told he had to spend another winter at the camp and wanted to go home. We saw lots of chinstrap penguins. The Zodiak took us on a tour of the bay and up close and personal to a crabeater seal. Our Zodiak driver, Chris from Germany, took us around to Skontorp Cove to view some spectacular glaciers and icebergs. 

Crabeater seal

Chinstrap Penguins 

Skua attacking Penguin nests to steal eggs.

We then went to a second location, Neko Harbour ~7 miles south of Errera Channel. It was discovered in 1897-1899 by Belgian Expedition. We did not go ashore but cruised around in the Zodiak and looked at the gen-too penguins and spectacular glaciers and icebergs.

December 15, 2021

This morning we sailed through the Lemaire Channel to Pleneau Island. I opted out of the Zodiak ride to look at the icebergs and stayed on ship.  That is Jim waving to me!  Jim saw Leopard seals!

35 people chose to do the polar plunge off the ship into the 28 degrees Fahrenheit water. We chose NOT.

Gentoo Penguin

We sailed back through the Lemaire Channel heading for Peterman Island for a shore landing. Weather conditions were not possible, so we went to an alternative landing at Port Lockroy. We went ashore where there were tons of Gentoo Penguins walking amongst us and a Leopard seal in the water. Port Lockroy is an historic site for the famed Penguin Post Office, the most southernmost post office in the world. Due to Covid it is currently closed.

December 16, 2021

Today we were scheduled to make a landing at Danco Island. Weather conditions and sea conditions made the landing impossible. We rode around in the bay on the Zodiak and saw some blue-eyed shags.

Later in the day, we went onshore at Cuverville, Island home of the largest Gentoo Penguin Colony with 5633 breeding pairs. 

These 2 curious penguins decided to get a closer look at us while we had our backs turned and sitting on the ground.

December 17, 2021

We Set sail back through Drake Passage which was much calmer than our journey south. It was a bit dicey as we were cutting through the forming ice and it immediately closing behind us.

December 18, 2021

We had a farewell cocktail party on deck as we Navigated Cap Horn, Chile.

December 19, 2021

We returned to Ushuaia, Argentina for our charter flight back to Orlando!